Paris was less love at first sight and more of a slow enchantment that grew over the four days we spent wandering its streets. We walked, walked, and walked some more, ate our weight in cheese, expertly avoided waiting in lines, went to a beautiful Mass at Notre Dame, drank coffee in cafes, settled into our quaint apartment, shopped in markets and cooked dinner. We wandered the Musee d'Orsay, ate crepes, splurged on macarons, sat in parks for hours, enjoyed people watching on the metro, explored bookstores and climbed hills in Montmarte. We ate croissants, drank more coffee and watched the sun set over the Seine. And every evening we got off at our metro stop, walked through the neighborhood and slowly climbed the narrow stairs with tired legs up to our apartment, and eagerly awaited the moment we could lean out the window as the lights of the Eiffel Tower flickered on.